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  • Tips to Buying Used Travel Trailers For Sale

    Tips to Buying Used Travel Trailers For Sale

    Going camping is a great way to relax and reconnect with nature. However, not everyone is into roughing it in a tent with some sleeping bags. Even if you do not have a lot of money to spend, there are many used travel trailers for sale, and you can find one if you know what to look for.

    Mechanical

    When you begin your search for travel trailers for sale, you want to take your time. Just because one looks good, does not mean it is mechanically sound. Safety while on the road should be your first priority. Be sure to examine the motorhome before purchasing.

    Start by looking underneath the trailer and checking the frame for rust. If there is a significant amount, this means the foundation is not sound. It could give way at any time in the future. In addition to rust, look for cracks, impact damage, or any broken welds. If you see any of these things, move on.

    While you are under the structure, look at the axles. You want to make sure there is no obvious damage. You should also ask how old the tires are. Anything older than five years should be replaced immediately. Look at the wheel rims to see if there is any rust or dents. Dents in the rims could cause problems for your tires.

    Finally, have the wheel bearings inspected, and repacked if necessary. You want to have the electric brake system inspected by a mechanic as well.

    Structural

    Once you are satisfied that the travel trailers for sale are mechanically sound, it is time to look at the overall structure. You want to check the floors and make sure there are no soft spots. The ceiling should be free of any leaks and should bear no stains from previous leaking problems. The entry door to your motorhome should move smoothly.

    On the outside of the structure, look at the walls. Make sure there is no peeling or separation on the fiberglass. If you have aluminum siding, check for damage or any loose panels. Finally, the windows need to open properly and the mechanism should be in good operating condition.

    Appliances and Accessories

    All travel trailers for sale should come with the appliances already installed and in working order. Refrigerators are expensive to replace, costing as much as $2,000. Be sure to check that it not only cools, but that also the temperature regulator works. The stove should have working burners and the oven should regulate correctly.

    While the appliances are the most costly pieces, you should also pay attention to the rest of the interior. Check the condition of the dinette table and investigate the cabinets to make sure the shelves are in good shape and that the doors close. Also, inspect the upholstery on the couch for stains and tears.

    The important part to remember about the interior is that much of it can be updated as you see fit. Curtains can be replaced as can carpeting, and walls are easy to repaint. Just make sure it is in good working order and that it is not too outdated for the time being.



    Source by Antoinette Ayana

  • The 20 Year History of the Toyota Motorhome

    For almost 20 years various manufacturers made the Toyota motor home in several models. During its heyday, this little camper was produced in over 60 different models and styles of motor homes.

    Beginning with the rather small Toyota Chinook camper and carrying on through the largest of the Toyota based Winnebago and Itasca models, the Toyota based motor home help to establish many manufacturers in the RV industry.

    Because of the large number of manufacturers it is not uncommon to see similar campers and very different names. The small overall size had to limit the variety of floor plans available. This caused a lot of the manufacturers to build virtual duplicates that varied only in some of the fit and finish type of details.

    It wasn’t long until the manufacturers began to expand the size of the camper bodies. Using conventional manufacturing techniques found in the travel trailer industry, the stick and staple type of construction with aluminum siding became the standard.

    In the decade of the 1980s production of the Toyota motor home peaked. Many different companies were producing many different models. Some of the larger companies that were in this business were national RV, the producers of the very popular Dolphin series. They also produced the Seabreeze models. At the same time Winnebago was producing the Brave, the Warrior, and the deluxe Itasca Spirit models.

    Damen Corporation of Elkhart Indiana produce the Escaper motor home, while Coachman produced the popular Coachman and Savanna models. Leisure Odyssey was building the Americana, Santa Cruz, and the Laguna campers.

    The Mini-Mirage was built by Mirage industries, while the still very popular SunRader was constructed with a fiberglass body by Gardener Pacific.

    By the late 1980s the length of the camper body had expanded to 22 feet. This caused a severe overload problem on the original half ton pickup axle. A national safety recall was issued by the United States government to correct the problem. Most of the models were given a new one ton axle. However there are still a few units available today that have the unsafe axle. Caution is advised if you are looking at in 1980s version of this very popular camper.

    In 1989 V6 appeared on the market in the Toyota chassis. This increased horse power became very popular with the camper owners and production continued until 1994 when Toyota stopped supplying the pickup chassis to the camper manufacturers for safety reasons. Winnebago produced some of the last V6 versions in 1994.

    During its production lifetime, the Toyota motor home enjoyed a great popular success and was widely distributed across the country. Today the greatest number of units on the road seem to be concentrated on the east and west coast areas but these motor homes will turn up just about anywhere in the country.



    Source by Lee S Mcpherron

  • Advantages And Disadvantages of Class C Motorhomes

    Advantages And Disadvantages of Class C Motorhomes

    A Class C motorhome is very easy to recognize as they most often have a section that folds out over the roof of the cab. They are very popular with weekend campers and vacationers for reasons that we will discuss later. They usually are shorter and somewhat smaller than most Class A motorhomes since they are built on more conventional truck frames. Here are is the short list of advantages and disadvantages of Class C RVs:

    Advantages:

    1. Price can be a great advantage as they generally cost far less than Class A motorhomes and a lot less than bus conversions.

    2. They are built to accommodate several people. Since they are a favorite of weekend travelers and vacationers, there is usually plenty of sleeping accommodations and that is one of the functions of that section that juts out over the cab roof, to provide another bed for sleeping.

    3. Because of being smaller they can fit into almost any campground or park very easily, so you have more choices of where you can stay at night. They also take going off-road much better than most other larger RV types.

    Disadvantages:

    1. They are built on a truck/van frame and so there is only so much weight that they can handle without getting overloaded. This will limit how much you can take with you on the trip. If you pack light this isn’t a problem, but with every person that you add on the trip, the load increases, so bear this in mind.

    2. If they aren’t packed properly, or if you buy one of the very long models, they can be more difficult to handle on the highway. Again, this is a weight issue that relates back to the frame size, so keep your weight ratio down and this may not present much of a problem.

    3. A good section of the unit’s length will be pretty useless as it involves the cab itself. So when considering actual living space, be sure to only count the area from the end of the cab backward.

    These are great RVs to rent and try out for a week or so to see how you like the RV lifestyle before actually committing to it long term. Generally, if you like staying in a Class C and can handle the little problems associated with it, you will most likely be very comfortable in a Class A or bus conversion motorhome. Class C RVs can be rented almost anywhere, so why not give them a try and see if taking your home on the road with you is your cup of tea.



    Source by Jim Johnson

  • Camper Vans and Motorhomes – What’s the Difference?

    Camper Vans and Motorhomes – What’s the Difference?

    RV Rental Discount Code rvcamp50Options for traveling solo or with your family vary far and wide. While many are content with choosing a destination and finding accommodations at that one spot, many prefer the flexibility camper vans and motorhomes offer.

    Not only do you have more flexibility in where you can go, you also can travel at your own pace, on your own schedule – no check out dates and no schedules, other than the time you’ve committed for the vacation of course.

    Options for camper vans and motorhomes vary far and wide. Many who are new to recreational vehicles and don’t quite know what they want can easily get confused as to the different classes of vehicles available.

    Broadly speaking, recreational vehicles can be broken into 3 classes, which include:

    Class A Motorhomes – 21-40 feet in length

    The largest of the three classes, these are true “homes on wheels.” They’re built on a heavy duty frame – sometimes a commercial bus or truck. Most have 2 slideouts at minimum and are very roomy with lots of living, cooking, sleeping and storage space. Class A motorhomes can comfortably sleep anywhere from 6 to 12.

    Class B Motorhomes – 16-21 feet in length

    These motorhomes are the smallest of the three classes and are most commonly referred to as camper vans since they look like vans. They’re in fact built on van chassis and maneuver pretty easily, especially when compared to the Class A. While they’re easier to drive and get better fuel mileage, they are smaller and do not have a separation between the driver seat and the cooking/bathing/sleeping areas. The entire bathroom for example doubles as the shower as well.

    While they are much smaller, camper vans can be driven pretty much anywhere and easily parked on your own driveway.

    Class C Motorhomes – 20-28 feet in length

    These medium sized motorhomes are built on a cabin chassis and are characterized by the over-cab sleeping area, which unlike a camper van, opens more area up for the living area, kitchen and bathroom. Some Class C motorhomes include a back bedroom and most have a slideout or two. Class C motorhomes though are harder to maneuver around tight places and generally require you tow a 2nd vehicle for sightseeing, etc.

    Another way to think about camper vans and motorhomes is the fact that a motorhome will have a divider between the cab and living quarters. A camper van will not have this divide and only includes basic facilities for cooking, washing and sleeping.

    Which one you choose depends on a host of factors ranging from what you’re comfortable driving, where you need to go and how many people will be traveling with you.

    Each option is better suited for particular situations, so think about some of the factors mentioned above when looking at which recreational vehicle you’ll choose.

    Source by Patrick T Langley

  • 10 Things Every RV Camper Needs

    Below is a list of items we take with us on every camping trip. We recommend them to friends and customers, we trust them with our families, and we’re sure you will trust them too. Everything here is available at our store, or you can order online and get it delivered right to your home.

    1. Chempace drop-in toilet chemicals

    Toilet chemicals are the most important element to your black water (sewer) system on your camper. Make sure you have the ease of use that drop-ins provide. They are less expensive than pre-mixed liquids, and easier to store, because they don’t freeze during the winter. Stock up on these – you’re going to need them.

    2. Aquasoft toilet tissue by Thetford

    Only toilet paper designed for RV black water systems should be used in your trailer. Prevent clogs, and avoids the hassle of time consuming tank clean-outs when the kids are cranky from the heat and the wife is complaining about the clean-out station smells.

    3. Valterra EZ-Coupler Sewer Hose set

    Don’t get caught without a good quality sewer hose. The EZ Coupler set has built in fittings, and the sewer fitting, and easily converts from a 10′ to a 20′ hose, depending on what you need. Made with heavy duty 18 mil vinyl for long lasting protection from leaks and pin holes.

    4. Valterra water pressure regulator

    All RV manufacturers recommend using a water pressure regulator to protect your RV’s plumbing fittings. It keeps the water running between 40-55 psi. and stops water surges from campgrounds (they don’t use fancy plumbing) from damaging any of the water lines in your trailer. One leak inside your trailer and this will pay for itself.

    5. Iosso water repellant

    Camping is fun, but getting wet is not. This works on any fabric that is exposed to the elements. Use it on tent campers, tents, boat covers, luggage bags, trailer covers, anything you want protected.

    6. Lap sealant (roof caulking) by Dicor

    The most expensive repair bill you’ll ever get on your camper will be if the roof leaks and you don’t do anything about it. This is the only caulking you should be using on your rubber roof on your RV. It is designed to level itself, and fill gaps in your application, making a good seal. Trailer manufacturers recommend checking your roof every three months.

    7. Black Streak Remover from Best

    Remove those ugly black streaks from your camper easily, keeping your RV looking showroom clean for years to come. Especially useful when the family in the next lot pulls up in a $500,000 motorhome.

    8. Replacement Anode Rod by Camco

    For use primarily with Suburban water heaters, this is one of the most sought after repair parts. When you drain your water out of the water heater, make sure you inspect the anode rod, and replace it if necessary. Protect your water heater from corrosion, and avoid costly repairs down the line.

    9. Mud Dauber Insect Screens by JCJ Enterprises

    Insects will gravitate to any area that smells like Propane. This means that your furnace exhaust, water heater vent, and refrigerator vents are all likely places for mud dauber wasps and other insects to nest. Protect yourself from accidental fire, as well as exhaust vent problems with these easy to install screens.

    10. 7-4 wire adapter by Hopkins

    Once you’ve got a good hitch, everyone in your family will know it and they will want you to tow something for them. When you need to tow any smaller or older trailers, this adapter converts the round 7-way plug on most new vehicles, to a 4-wire flat plug, common among smaller campers, and utility trailers. Make sure you have one in your toolbox, so an easy job doesn’t cost you time searching place to place for the right adapter.



    Source by Steve Rochette

  • RV’s and Freezing Weather Can Mix, If You’re Careful!

    When we left off last, we were safe and sound in Tacoma and the Christmas holidays were fast approaching. I promised you that we would let you know how the RV handles freezing weather.

    Lessons in Cold Weather RVing:

    It was December, but temps below freezing in Tacoma are rare. So, when the temperature the first night there got down into the 20s (-9 C) we were totally caught off guard.

    Here’s what happened:

    • The hose connecting us to water froze
    • The plastic pipe leading to the fresh water tank froze
    • The gas/propane furnace ran most of the night

    I need to tell you, our Rexhall Aerbus is a good quality motorhome and all the pipes are enclosed and access is through a sealed exterior bin. We thought that would be enough if the temps got down to freezing or just below. Truth is, had is only been a couple of degrees below freezing, we probably would have been OK. The problem was that it got more than just a little below freezing!

    Lesson #1 – How to Keep Pipes From Freezing

    If your water connections or any of your water lines are exposed to the outside, even temperatures just below freezing can freeze and crack your lines. Even if your lines and fill points are enclosed in bins or compartments, if those areas are not heavily insulated and heated, just having the sewer line or water hose coming up through an access hole can bring in the freezing temps and problems… as we found out first hand.

    Our simple solution was to wrap a heat tape with a built in temperature sensor (about $20.00 US) around the exposed pipes and valves. We got it from the local hardware store. It’s the kind meant for outside or crawl space water lines. It looks like an electrical extension cord that has no plug at the end.

    When we are in an area that has possible freezing temps, we just plug the heat tape into our full hookup power box via an extra extension cord (heavy duty) and the sensor takes care of turning on when needed.

    That’s all we needed to keep the bin and connections from freezing. We don’t connect the water hose in freezing temperatures, we just fill the fresh water tank as needed. If you were staying in one place for the winter, you could use another heat tape and some insulation wrapped around it on the hose to keep your hose from freezing too.

    For boondocking or dry camping, you could also stuff the compartment full of insulation or heavily insulate your exterior water lines to keep them from freezing in all but the coldest of temps.

    Lesson #2 – Heat Guns and Plastic Water Lines Don’t Mix

    My dad had a heat gun he used for heat shrink on wires and windows. We decided to use that to heat up the pipes and get the water pump working again.

    BIG MISTAKE!

    Well, using the heat gun was a good idea, we just didn’t know how warm and how fast it could work. Instead of just slowly warming the whole compartment, I made the mistake of blowing directly on the plastic water lines.

    In less than two minutes, I had heated up the plastic water line so well that it became soft and with the water line pressurized from the pump… It formed a bubble just like bubble gum and popped.

    I was lucky, my dad had just been remodeling his kitchen and had just the right size plastic water line on hand. So, all I had to do was finish thawing things out, slowly, and then fix the popped water line. That was just two fittings, about 8 inches of new plastic water line, the heat gun to warm the ends and it all screwed back together in less than 30 minutes. Like I said, I was lucky to be where I had the tools and supplies to fix it myself.

    It easily could have been a couple hundred dollars of repairs if I had to have a repair shop do it.

    In Conclusion: Motorhomes, 5th Wheels and other RVs can handle below freezing temperatures. You just need to use a little common sense and have a back up plan for when things don’t work out.

    • Don’t let the colder weather stop you from enjoying your RV year round.
    • Do test it’s cold weather abilities close to home or family, just in case.
    • Keep extra incandescent lights & insulation handy for backup & repairs
    • Always thaw frozen pipes and tanks slowly – To fast and thinks can break

    As we travel year round, we’ll keep you up to date on what we learn (the hard way) and how you can avoid the same mistakes (the easy way).



    Source by Wes Waddell